November 12, 2024

Apparel (Not All of It) is Dying

Many of my clients sell apparel ... often Women's Apparel.

And many of you are telling me that Apparel is dying.

Some of you don't say it specifically ... you tell me things like "Our sporting goods business is solid but apparel just keeps losing ground". There is some synergy between apparel losing ground and catalog marketing now in a free fall ... both interact with each other in a negative feedback loop.

A decade ago I consulted with a business that ended selling casual apparel (which was a reasonable percentage of the business), favoring outdoor apparel instead. Lots of internal strife ... "this is the end of the brand".

  • Narrator:  "It was not the end of the brand."

Sure, the brand got smaller, but then the brand stood for something, and moved forward. Their marketing tactics changed. Their creative treatment of products and personas completely changed. They were free to be "who they wanted to be" because they didn't have to constantly cater to a casual apparel customer that was ... well ... different.

As we ease into 2025, we're at an inflection point if you are an apparel brand. You are being squeezed into oblivion.
  • Amazon / Target / Walmart:  They commoditized apparel. Why should I pay $79 for something from Under Armour or Nike when I can get something that is 85% as good from Amazon for $19 and if it fails I can get two more and still have $20 in my pocket?
  • Fashion:  Meanwhile, some brands think they can get you to spend $149 on a dress. They can. A "comparable" item might cost $25 on Amazon ... it's not comparable, but it is comparable enough that most traffic heads to $25 while a small fraction spend $149. But it is the "right" traffic for that brand. They are competing on a very different level, and they have to pay for that, don't they? But they made a choice.

So, if you are Lands' End and you have a comparable dress for $89 at 40% off for $54, where do you fit? Why should the customer pay $54 when the customer can pay $25 and save money? Why should the customer pay $54 when the customer can pay $149 and get the ooohs and aaahs from the public? Financial benefits on one end. Social/Emotional benefits on the other end. What does $54 buy you?

One of my favorite books is The Demography of Corporations and Industries. One of the chapters deals with beer. There used to be hundreds/thousands of breweries ... which all were whittled down to a handful of "macro-breweries" by the 1990s. Bud or Miller. Enjoy! If you sold a middling beer at a middling price? Good luck, you were doomed. Only a handful of breweries existed by the mid-1990s.

What happened next? Micro-breweries. Walk down the beer aisle at Safeway in 2024 and you'll see a small area of macro-brews and an extensive array of micro-brews, all generally more expensive than the macro-brews that wiped out the beer industry thirty years ago. Who would have thought that "Summer Shandy" would command a higher price and that people would want beer that tasted like (checks notes) a lemon?
  • You have luxury beers.
  • You have quirky beers ... the "Summer Shandy's" of the world.
  • You have commoditized beers.

When apparel reinvents itself over the next decade, it will likely take the "Summer Shandy" path ... it will be apparel ... plus something ... like beer plus lemon, for instance. Might be quirky, might be different. 

I can't tell you what that "plus something" is ... that's your job, that's what you get paid to do. You don't get paid to send money to Facebook in exchange for customers, a bot can do that.

Apparel isn't the only thing that is dying. Gifts are dying. Home products are dying. Electronics already died years ago (commoditized to Best Buy and Costco and Amazon). I speak often about headphones ... headphones are being re-invented after the market was decimated by Apple and Beats and Noise Cancelling offerings from Bose / Sony / Sennheiser. Go buy a Zero:2 iem for $25 and tell me why you'd buy a Beats headphone for $200 - $300 ever again?

It's your job to find the "plus something" that causes an item to be appealing when compared to "monopoly brands" like Apple, Target, Walmart, Amazon, Best Buy etc. I know, you don't want to hear that, some of you will email me and tell me I'm wrong. That's ok. But you can't fight progress, and if you don't figure it out, somebody else will, at your expense.

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